b'THE CARNEGIE CLUBAgeing gracefullyAs the House of Rmy Martin celebrates three centuries of cognac excellence, the star of the house, Louis XIII, turns 150 years oldWORDS Chris MadiganIN 1874, TO CELEBRATE his familys 150The ceremonial serving years in the cognac business, Paul-mileof Louis XIII includes Rmy Martin created a special edition of thea crystal decanterbrandy. He awarded it the unwieldy name Grande Champagne Trs Vieille ge Inconnu. That cognac is now celebrating its own 150th anniversaryunder the name Louis XIII. In that century and a half, the ethos of Louis XIII is unchanged: it is a contemplation of time. The maison creates its blend exclusively with grapes grown, vinified and distilled by partner growers in Grande Champagne, known as the premier cru of 39 the Cognac appellation. This is not a choice based on status; it is because those eaux de vie are renowned for their potential to develop complexity over many decades. Not all eaux de vie from Grande Champagne are suitable for Louis XIII. Baptiste Loiseau, Cellar Master of the House of Rmy Martin, says: Creating Louis XIII begins when the growers bring us theirIT MRIESowned by Paul-mile Rmy Martin. White eau de vie. During the selection, we tastecotton gloves, for handling the decanter; itor, in fact, nose it like a perfumiertoAR a spear to draw the perfect 40cl measure; detect the potential for ageing. It could beand dedicated faceted crystal glasses further suitable for Rmy Martin VSOP or XO.BEAUTIFULLY WITHenhance the experience.But, in two or three per cent of cases, it isTHE AMBIENCEA Louis XIII decanter takes pride incredible enough to be considered for ageingof place in the Gun Room at The Carnegie into Louis XIIIwith rich fruitiness andOF THE CASTLE Club at Skibo Castle. Diane Munro, elegant floral notes.Food and Beverage Manager, explains: Not that the current cellar master will We are delighted to have introduced Louis actually bottle any of the liquid he selects.XIII to our members reserve collection. The youngest eaux de vie in the Louis XIIIExquisitely luxurious, it marries beautifully blend are over 40 years old; the oldest haveWhen you contemplate the fact that thewith the ambience of the castle and its been maturing in oak casks for over a century.crafting of your after-dinner drink began overScottish baronial interior. Surrounded I make the selection in the knowledgea century ago, it is no wonder that there is aby wood-panelled walls, antique furniture Cowboys Agencythat I will not be the one to make the finalcertain amount of ceremony involved in theand fine art, members can settle into blend, Loiseau says. But I am ensuringserving and enjoyment of Louis XIII. a comfortable seat by an open fire and lose a legacy for future generations, just as hasIt begins with the hand-blown crystalthemselves in contemplation with a glass been done for me. decanter, its shape based on a pewter flaskof this historic cognac in hand. '